i am interesting in hi-tech green house

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mshah

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i am munjal shah from vadodara...so i am interesting in the hi-tech green house..so give me detail information about the green house cultivation...
 
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Ashwini

Well-Known Member
Hi
A greenhouse helps in extending the gardening activities and allows us to grow plants that might otherwise be impossible. Inside greenhouse we have a protected environment and a group of plants which rely on us for their very existence, As a definition, we can state that «A greenhouse is generally a place where plants are raised and cultivated rather than set out for display". A greenhouse offers a way to extend the joy of gardening, so it should be used properly. Outdoor, plants are in a environment where one can not control -frost, wind, rain and other environmental hazards. Here the results depends entirely on the type and facilities inside a greenhouse and our own skill rather than on the various of soil type and weather.

Greenhouses need constant attention at most times of the year and this means every day in summer unless we install an automatic ventilator and an automatic watering system. It should not be considered merely as a money making proposition nor it is a simple pastime calling for occasional action. Instead of absorbing hobby which enables one to produce a range of plants at a time when the garden counterparts are far C behind or their growth outdoor is impossible. Judicious use of greenhouses helps in attaining good profits when used commercially. Here in a greenhouse there is: a steady stream of jobs to do, but none of those is strenuous which makes green- house growing especially suitable for the not so-young and the disabled.

A greenhouse can be used for:
-Producing half hardy perennials or bedding annually grown from seed both during sowing and pricking out.
-Protect tender plants and bulbs during the winter months.
-Grow hobby plants such as chrysanthemums, fuschia's or exotic orchids.
-Cultivate indoor pot plants.
-Cultivate alpine species.
-Use it for commercial purposes.

The site for a greenhouse should be preferably close to main electricity and water supplies. The site should be level, open and should not be sheltered and overshadowed by trees. Ideally oriented so the long axis can lien east-west to optimize the use of light.

II. Size of the Greenhouse

It can be of any convenient size ranging from 6 ft x 4.5 ft to 20 ft to 10ft. Recommending the most suitable size is not an easy task and one has to consider various factors. A tiny house saves money but has two disadvantages.

1. It is much more difficult to control the environment in a small house than in a large one, draughts and sudden fluctuations in temperature are serious problems.

2. Most gardeners find that they need more space after a year or two; If space is available it is advisable to buy a modular greenhouse which can be extended if needed.

The most popular size of a greenhouse is 8 feet long x 6 ft wide, where space is restricted. If we want to have staging on both sides of the house, then 10 ft x 8 ft size is advisable. The size should be in keeping with the area of the garden; a large green house can be very costly to heat and a structure which is more than 8 ft well usually need a concrete base.

III. Greenhouse Structural Details


This comprises of the following details.

A. Frame
Aluminium alloy has taken over as the most popular material for greenhouse frames for several reasons. It is cheaper than wood and requires no painting or other treatment and the thin glazing bars mean more light within the house. There are certain drawbacks like aluminium greenhouses lose slightly more heat at night than wooden ones and condensation drips are more likely to occur.

If aluminium frame is poorly designed it may twist in windy or hot weather and panes may be broken. Now pre-drilled holes are there on main frame so fixing shelves/ hooks is not a problem.

Wood is considered by many to be most attractive material. The main problem is that rot-proof timber is so expensive, teak and oak are very costly and the cheaper western red cedar is still appreciably more expensive than aluminium. These rot proof frames should be rubbed with linseed oil every few years to enhance their appearance. Fittings should always be of brass or galvanized iron. If one opts for a soft- wood greenhouse then make sure that the wood has been pressure treated with a preservative. Plant safe preservatives should be used for painting treatment every few years.

Unplasticised rigid polyvenyl chloride (PVC) is the latest material, which is generally quite expensive but requires little maintenance and also is decay proof. It requires only occasional washing to remove dust/ bird droppings. Its main drawback is that, it is not a strong material, which means that glazing bars have to be as thick as wooden ones and with large buildings the UPVC frame requires a metal core.

Galvanized steel is still used in the manufacture of commercial greenhouses but is no longer popular for home models. The great advantage of this material is its rigidity and strength, which means it can support a large roof. This is of little advantage for an ordinary 8 ft x 6 ft house, and the fact that the galvanized or painted surface can become scratched and then pitted with rust is a disadvantage.

B. Floor
The traditional pattern for the floor of the greenhouse was to have one or both sides as border soil for growing plants and a central pathway made of concrete, concrete slabs or wooden slabs, but most experts no longer rec9mmend using border soil for growing annual plants such as tomatoes. The problem is a build-up of diseases, pests and other troubles in the soil. Growing in bags and pots are preferred these days. The floor of the greenhouse is entirely functional, where carpeting is not practical; stone or reconstituted stone slabs are quite popular. Terracotta tiles are a good choice.


C. Guttering for greenhouse
Guttering is useful as rainwater dripping from the roof can undermine the foundations. Some models have built in guttering as a standard fitting. The water from the gutter should be channelled into a soakway or into a plastic water butt.

D. Doors for Greenhouse
Hinged or sliding both types have their disciples. Sliding doors don't slam shut and they can be used as extra ventilators in an emergency. But they do get stuck occasionally and the nylon bearings may need replacing. Hinged door generally fit better.

E. Lighting for greenhouse
Lighting is not essential, but horticultural lamps can increase the range of activities under glass. An electric point will be acquired within the house.

F. Ventilators for greenhouse
There are times when a series of rapid air change become necessary within the greenhouse. Unfortunately the ventilators fitted on most standard models, are inadequate. There should be at least one roof ventilator (ridge vent) and one side ventilator (side vent). The roof ventilators are all important. The total ventilator area along the ridge should be 16-20 per cent of the total floor area. These hinged ventilators should open to at least 55°. Side ventilators need not open so widely and louvered ones are generally better than the traditional hinged type.

An automatic ventilator like extra hinged ones may be described as an optional extra. But it is useful equipment for those who cannot spare the time to go out daily to open and close the ventilators by hand. An extractor fan is sometimes fitted close to the ridge at the end opposite to the door which helps in producing enough air movement in the greenhouse.

Regards
Ashwini
 

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